Losing hair

Guys, I need some help!

I know that shedding is normal and that you lose 50-100 hairs a day BUT.....this here ain't normal. Back in my hair abusing days i could not have cared less about the handful of hair staring back at me from the corner of the tub but now that I give a $#$&, I am pissed. All month I have been protective styling it, oiling it up and covering my head at night. I take a multivitamin, a hair and nail vitamin, a B-12 and D vitamin everyday.

I do have some color damage I know that but is this really cool? How much hair do you guys lose when styling or detangling? I just want to get an idea of what is normal.

sigh

Cecile

Hello All

Hi Ladies,

I apologize I am a bit late on the introductions. I find that if I'm not careful I have a bad habit of losing track of things. Anyhow. My name is Lauren, and I have been natural for 1yr., 4 months. Going natural for me was definitely a process, at first I thought I would NEVER be able to do it. I hadn't dealt with my natural hair since I was 10 or 12 years old. But, on the day I did my Big chop I knew that there was no going back, and I haven't regretted it yet. My natural hair journey has been great, I love all the little discoveries that I've made, and look forward to continuing my journey with all of you!

p.s. I'll be working on posting more often! : )

All the best

- Ren

Trying New Things

Hello.. My name is Michelle and I have been doing this natural thing for a year this month!!! I'm still learning what my hair likes and doesn't like. Some products and styles my hair loves. There are also styles and products that my hair hates. I mean like it looks like I've been struck by lighting lol lol. Not going to let that get to me. I will be posting pics and videos soon :0). Starting this hair challenge is what I need. My goal is to have healthy hair no matter what. Thanks for inviting me to the challenge.

All Natural without choice

Ok, I thought I'd come on here and vent a bit. Turns out that I cannot use Aphogee Keratin treatment. Why, you ask? Because I seem to be intolerant to EVERYTHING acidic whether I am eating it or putting it on my skin or hair. Sooooooo............ I guess this has both positive and negative sides. Here they are:

Positive - I won't be able to be a product junkie.
Negative - I won't get to smell like yummy hair products.
Positive - I'll hopefully save money on hair products since I'll only buy Shea butter and oils.
Negative - I'll have to make my own natural protein treatments from now on.
Positive - My long term protective style (yarn braids) will actually be perfect since it won't irritate my skin and I can use all natural products to seal in moisture.

I also put up a video (very amateur) on Youtube about the abuse I have put my hair through. You can watch it on my channel: etsyintertwyned.

FYI: My new hair regimen

Co wash every 2 weeks (For now, my hair gets so dry when I wash it and I don't get build up much. It is like my hair eats everything I put on it.)

Twist with castor oil and home made shea butter/oil whip (my hair is feeling a bit better but still has a long way.)
Moisture with olive oil spray every day (trying to conserve the good oils for when I go to Sweden)

Home made protein treatment every other time I cowash.

That's all for now *steps down from soap box, takes a bow, puts box under arm and walk away*

Cecile

Challenge Info - 2

Just explaining how pH affects the state of your hair.

The optimum pH balance for hair is between 4.5-5.5

• 0 (strongly acidic) – 14 (strongly alkaline)

• The higher the pH, the more likely the hair is being stripped of its natural essential oils

• Don’t continue to leave conditioner on for extended periods of time. Water begins to replace protein (keratin).

For example: Suave conditioner used for detangling– 6.



Nia.

Birthday Present

I am really going to try this for my Birthday hairstyle.

Any tips or tricks Felicia? This one is going to be tough.



*DISCLAIMER: Mute the sound. The girl in the video sounds like a ding bat.*

Almost 25.

Nia.

In the beginning there was a curly fuzz lol

At this point, my hair has not been permed in 3 yrs and no heat since march 2011. In March, I got a sew-in that ended bad. When I was taking it down I used scissors to cut the thread andddd uhhhhhh yeah..... I cut a Jack Ass plug out of my hair not down to the skin but I cut the braid so my hair is hella uneven.....Me and Nia have discussed cutting my hair out right to start over fresh but it brings me to tears of the idea. My hair has been responding well to Olive oil and the Castor oil. I have a independent brand product of detangler and hair cream and both have kept my hair with shine and easier to deal with. I see less hair when I detangle. But I have to be honest, still have not reach my routine on washing, deep cond, and hot oil treaments which my hair needs because sometimes it can be dry.....but anywho here are some snap shots of my buzz and fuzz.

Understading the Purpose

As I'm going through this hair challenge, I'm learning that this challenge is more about learning about my hair. Over the past couple of days, I think I have been experiencing some breakage when I twist my hair or maniupulate my hair in any manner. It's not severe, but I can notice it. Because of the breakage, I know that I need to do a protein treatement (which should be done every 6 weeks anyway. I'm wayyyyyy behind schedule).

My point in rambling about my breakage is to say that this hair challenge and blog is more about experimenting and learning about our hair. I'm starting to actually figure out what my hair likes. It's a living, breathing organism as far as I'm concerned. If I take care of it the way it wants to be taken care of, I'll get the results that I want.

So....change in my regimen:

1. When it gets very cold, I will go to washing my hair twice a month.
2. Deep condition with conditioner, honey, and olive oil. My hair has been respoinding to olive oil very nicely.
3. I don't always have to detangle my hair with a paddle brush. If my hair is in a stretched state, which it usually is, it should be much easier to finger detangle. Detangling with a paddle brush every time I wash or condition is unnecessary and putting unnecessary stress on my hair.
4. Still debating, but I might go to deep conditioning twice a week as well. Alternating weeks with shampooing. I'm reading a natural hair book now (THANK GOD I'M NATURL) and learning some new things that I think I want to implement into my regimen.

So ladies and gent....I hope your challenge is going well. Any questions, comments, or concerns, let us know.

Nia.

For those of us who can't braid (me)

This girl has crazy long hair and does a pretty good tutorial... I am going to attempt it today after work...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtbjG6eyXBU

As Wash Day Approaches......Challenge Info - 2

Found this article. Very interesting!!!!
___________________________________________________________

After reading through the Best Practices- Detangling Dry or Wet comments, and reflecting on my own experiences and research around the web, there seems to be three common and effective detangling methods. Below, I'll list them and provide tips on how to execute each effectively.

Sink/Mirror Detangling

• Apply an oil (olive, coconut, jojoba, grapeseed, avocado, etc.) to soften and lubricate the hair, and add slip. Be liberal. Some like to dampen the hair with water first, some don't. I don't.
• Separate the hair into 4-8 sections for easier handling
• Choose a section and detangle gently with fingers, bottom up, removing knots, tangles and shed hairs
• OPTIONAL- Comb through with a wide tooth comb or paddle brush to be sure all shed hairs have been removed
• Twist this section and move on to the next. Repeat until your entire head is lubed up, detangled, and twisted.
• Once in the shower, you can (1) shampoo and condition in the twists/sections, (2) take them all down and be careful not to re-tangle with excessive handling during the wash and condition process, or (3) take down one section at time, shampoo, condition, re-twist. I personally take them all down and handle gently.

Shower Detangling

• Thoroughly saturate hair with water in the shower, and divide into two (left and right)
• Cleanse hair with shampoo-- one side at a time
• Apply slippery conditioner of the day to both sides in a smooshing motion
• Pass head back under the shower stream for a moment, for better distribution and added slip
• Clip the hair up and out of the way while you complete shower rituals
• Take down the right side and finger detangle (bottom up) -- detangling the rest under the water stream with your fingers or a shower comb (or Ouidad Double Detangler). Follow up with the left side. If the conditioner is washed away and tangles are left, add more conditioner, and repeat. The power of the water stream and the slip of the conditioner should make detangling a breeze!

Damp Detangling

• Spritz dry hair with water and apply a conditioner or moisturizing butter to soften and add slip
• Separate the hair into 4-8 sections for easier handling
• Choose a section and detangle gently with fingers, moving from ends to roots, removing the knots and tangles
• OPTIONAL- Comb through with a wide tooth or shower comb (some use a paddle brush)
• Twist this section and move on to the next
• Once in the shower, you can (1) shampoo and condition in the twists/sections, (2) take them all down and be careful not to re-tangle with excessive handling during the wash and condition process, or (3) take down one section at time, shampoo, condition, re-twist. I take them all down and handle gently.

My advice?
Try each detangling method (modify to your needs and schedule) and see which works best. How will you know which one is for you? Trust me, it'll be obvious-- excessive amounts of hair in the comb, hair blocking the shower drain, or tiny broken pieces on the sink, are all red flags. I quickly learned that I can't damp detangle. My hair gets stiff, brittle, and tangles more. Others can't shower detangle-- they loose excessive amounts of hair due to matting and shedding. Still others can't dry detangle due to breakage and impossible knotting. Some thrive on daily co-washing, others grow to waist length with once a month wash sessions. Natural hair care is trial and error. In the words of Wanda Sykes, 'it can be a damn science lab', and you won't know what works until you experiment a bit. I usually try routines for a month, assess, and proceed from there. Hopefully the list above will give you a starting point for your detangling routine! No matter which you choose, remember to be gentle, dammit!
___________________________________________________________

Something to add to the calendar.....

Protein Treatment- Should be done every 6 weeks. I usually buy mine from Sally's Beauty Supply. They are about $.99. You can also concoct an at-home protein treatment. Eggs and Mayonaisse contain a large amount of protein.

Hair carries a negative charge. Protein treatments are large moleculed and carry a positive charge. ATTRACTION! Positive molecules will fill in where the cuticle is missing, chipped, or damaged. If cuticle is permanently lifted (BAD), then protein will fill in where it can. Protein treatments only mimic the hair structure and temporarily. After protein treatment, must follow with conditioner or product to lower/seal the cuticle.

Make sure you put this on your calendar.

Nia.

So I think I have a plan!

Since receiving my oils I've been able to try them all out to see what works best for my hair and here's how I plan to use them. Because of my hair texture (4b) I have to be careful not to use to much product... it takes very little to cause product build up on my hair. So if you're a 4b lady this should work for you as well... honestly it should work for any texture you just have to adjust the amount being used for your hair. Typically the the kinkier your hair is, the more moisture it requires.

Sunday: Shampoo Day...followed by my conditioner of choice (letting sit for at least 30mins then rinse). Two Strand Twist using Water and Castor oil. The Castor oil kinda stretches my hair and makes it really soft and moisturized.

      If you can see it! I use about this much Castor oil on each of the 4 sections I put my hair in to twist it.

Monday: Water/Seal with Argan Oil or Jojoba Oil

Tuesday:  Water/Seal with Argan Oil or Jojoba Oil

Wednesday: Take twist down...I wish my hair would last in a style more than 3 days but it doesn't, it starts looking all raggedy and I work with all white people so that ain't gone work. Lol. After taking them down, I'll Water/Seal with Grapeseed oil. The Grapeseed oil isn't as heavy as the Castor oil yet more of a moisturizer than the Argan and Jojoba (for my hair).

Thursday:  Water/Seal with Argan Oil or Jojoba Oil

Friday: Water/Seal with Argan Oil or Jojoba Oil

Saturday: I'll most likely do something fun like a wash and go! Sealing with Shea Butter or any other butter of choice. And that night I'll do my Pre-Poo (my hair loves Pre-Pooing). For my Pre-Poo, I do a mix of Honey, VO5 Moisture Milk Conditioner, and Argan Oil.

This is my plan and I'ma try and stick to it...Feel free to use it too!

Now what?!

Now that you have your oils....I'm sure you're guessing what you can do with them.

I told Cecille yesterday that I'm going to use my oils in 2 ways.

1st: I'm going to make more Shea Butter/Oil mixture. I melt chunks of Shea Butter (usually I buy the tub that's usually available at the beauty supply store). I add a tad bit of leave-in conditioner, and a small amount of each oil. I don't want this mixture to be super greasy so I start with a small amount of oils and add more if needed. I use a hand mixer (unmelted....LOL Cecille) and whip the mixture until it begins to get thick and creamy. I place the mixture in the fridge for a few hours until it solidifies.



I kid you not....Cecille and I made this whipped concoction and it made like 5 jars!!! I am STILL using the concoction. It's lasted about 9-10 months. Does that sound about right, Cecily?

2nd: I am going to mix 4 oils together in a small spray bottle. I'm not sure how big my little bottle is. It might be like 4oz, so I'm going to do an ounce of each oil. Shake well!!!! I will probably use this to seal my hair when I do two-strand twists.

I just like using the Shea Butter concoction because it's thicker and I'll need that in the colder months. 


Holla back girls!!


Nia.

I was in the lab....aka my kitchen

So.....like I mentioned before, I am the queen bee of abusing my hair. So because I have decided to be nice to my hair and take care of it, I decided to make my own pre-poo concoction.

It all started when I noticed the newly melted (yes, melted) hand mixer on the kitchen counter. surely no one will mind if I use it to mix greasy, sticky, fragrant hair products with this now since someone already stuck it in a hot pot of soup and melted part of the plastic guard........

I had a few random half started mixes and stuff I really wanted to consolidate, (Shea butter/conditioner mix with way to much shea butter) A gazillion opened conditioners, and a few random oils (Amla, refined coconut).

I have no idea what the amount are that I put into this whipped pre- poo goodness, but man that stuff felt GREAT!!!!

Here is what I used:

Shea butter (the kind you get at the beauty supply store, the tub with yellow label.
Suave conditioner (I had some Coconut and some Ocean Mist).
Mane and Tail Deep Conditioner.
Amla Oil ( yes i know, it has mineral oil in it. i still put some in there, that's right!)
Refined Coconut Oil
Honey
Yogurt

I just whipped it all together with the hand mixer, adding stuff until it felt smooth and creamy but not greasy.... it made about 3 tubs worth of stuff so I stuck it in the freezer for safe keeping....

Not sure if this will do anyone any good but I figured I would share since I am at work and a bit bored.

Cecile

Pre Poo Please

I believe I'll do one later after work thanks Nia. This morning just gonna ad some oil and go.....Love 2 b natural happynappys ladies!

Hair Regimen!!!

6 steps I must follow for healthy hair growth:

1.       Detangle

2.       Wash

3.       Condition

4.       Moisturize

5.       Protect & Seal

6.       GROW!!!!!!

Detangle- After taking down twist (protective style), section hair into 4 sections. Clip each section. Continue to finger comb through hair. Take each section and smooth down hair strand. Helps cuticle to be stimulated and helps get hair in one direction.

Wash- Rinse one section of the hair (usually start from the back right). Use conditioner or Olive Oil to saturate hair. Will aid in removing shed hair and detangling.  Smooth hands down hair to remove shed hair. DON’T THROW THE HAIR AWAY! Remember: Need to track shedding and broken hairs. After shed hairs are removed, begin to detangle from the ends to the roots. Should be easy if Moist/Seal happened throughout the week. Wring out hair to remove excess conditioner. Add shampoo/cleansing cream to the scalp. Spray water (water/Glycerin mixture also works) if scalp/hair needs to be dampened. Concentrate your shampoo on your scalp. Scalp health is VERY important to healthy hair growth. Massage scalp. Once your massage your entire scalp, run the shampoo/cleansing cream down the hair shaft. Remember: Do not scratch scalp. Slightly rinse section with warm water. Twist section and replace clip. Continue with the other 3 sections.

Condition- Start with back right section again and add conditioner. Spray water/glycerin mixture if hair needs to be dampened. Rub conditioner through hair section. Finger combing throughout section. Twist section. Repeat on remaining sections. Put shower cap over head and wait 10-15 minutes. Rinse each section individually, re-twist section, and replace clip.

YAY……..CLEAN HAIR!!!!!!

Leave-in conditioner:

1 oz. of Leave-In conditioner

2 teaspoons of Castor Oil

2 teaspoons of Jojoba Oil

2 tablespoons of Aloe Vera Juice

Distribute through each section and re-twist.

Deep Conditioner:

Any type of conditioner can be used

Add any oil you would like (I prefer Olive Oil because it’s cheaper and adds shine)

Distribute throughout hair

Cover hair with shower cap or plastic bag

1 Avocado

½ to 1 can of Coconut Milk

Olive Oil

Mix until creamy. Adjust amount of coconut milk until creamy consistency is achieved.

The remainder can be stored in the fridge.

1 Avocado

1/4 cup Shea Butter (or more)

Olive Oil

1-2 tablespoon of Apple Cider Vinegar

1 Avocado

3 tablespoons of Mayo

Olive Oil

Honey

*ALL of these mixtures need to be mixed well. If not, there is a chance you will be picking ingredients, especially the Avocado) out of your hair. Deep conditioners work the best with heat. Covering hair with shower cap or plastic bag and sitting under the dryer for 30 minutes (covering hair for an hour with a towel is just as good). I like using Olive Oil in my mixtures. It’s the cheapest and easiest to find. I don’t really measure how much I put into the mixture. It’s good for my hair so ‘too much’ is impossible.

If you would prefer something store bought, please check this link. http://www.afrobella.com/2010/11/02/autumn-5-deep-conditioners-for-natural-kinks-and-curl/

Moisturize- After twisting hair with any type of Twist Cream or Shea Butter mixture, let dry for about 30 minutes before adding any additional moisture. Apply Butter Crème or Thick Moisturizer. Stretch hair with ponytail holder and add scarf. During the week, add moisture with water/oil or moisturizer. Listen to what your hair needs. Moisturize hair one day before pre-poo to avoid excess oil build up on scalp. Alternate with sealing.

Sealing-While your hair is in a protective styling, dampen hair with water. You can add a moisturizer to your twists/braids/hair. Make sure you smooth it down the entire length of your hair, especially focusing on your edges. Seal the moisture in your hair with an oil mixture or Shea Butter. You can also apply the oil mixture or Shea Butter directly after you mist your hair with water. It is totally up to you. Again, listen to your hair. If it’s thirsty, give it more moisture.

Here are some sealing process/products that I have tried before. Still working with my hair to figure out which one it likes the best. Personally, I prefer misting with water and sealing with Shea Butter/Oil mixture.

·         Water/Glycerin/Aloe Vera Juice

·         Hawaiian Silky 14-n-1 Miracle worker

·         Oil Blend (Jojoba Oil/Castor Oil/Avocado Oil/Safflower Oil/Grapeseed Oil/Olive Oil)

OR

·         Water

·         Butter Crème/Thick Moisturizer

·          Oil Blend

OR

·         Water/Aloe Vera Juice

·         Hair Milk or light moisturizer

·         Jojoba Oil

Wrap hair with plastic to retain moisture. Atleast an hour.

Protect- Protective styles need to be worn throughout the week. Because your hair is already in twisted sections during your washing routine.....it will be easy to style your hair from here. Remember to work in sections!!! Protective style pictures and videos will be posted VERY soon. 

**Hair regimen needs to be adjusted during the colder months when hair is more susceptible to dryness and breakage because of extreme bold and fabrics (especially wool from hats and scarves). Removing glycerin from the routine is essential. Glycerin attracts water and moisture. Using glycerin in colder months only attracts extremely cold air and moisture. This cold moisture in the air is too frigid for the hair. It makes the hair weak and more prone to breakage.

                GROW- Well………hopefully!!!!!

So this is it ladies. I'll be adding more information very soon. Read up on it.

Any questions, comments, or concerns so far?

How is everybody's hair doing?

Holla @ a playette.

Nia.

Pre-Poo my 'DO *update*

Well ladies.....

Let me just say that my Pre-Poo was amazing!!! My hair just felt soo Hawaiian Silky!!! Surprisingly, my hair was still warm after I took off my plastic bags (I use those instead of plastic shower caps). So, let me calculate this....I had the Pre-Poo in my hair for about 18 hours. HA!!!

I washed my hair with Elasta QP again (it's growing on me because I know how to work it now). And conditioned with Hello Hydration from Herbal Essence. I bought a million travel sizes because they were on sale. Nothing spectacular about the condition even though I've heard peeps rave about it.

OHHH.....I took pictures of my sections just in case anyone needed to see. I make 4 initial sections....and they are NOT neat....at all. They don't have to be. Section from ear to ear and forehead to nape of neck. I broke up my hair in smaller sections to make it easier to apply Pre-Poo, Shampoo, and Conditioner.

I only took out my small sections and combined them when I was done with the whole 'cleansing' process. I combined the hair and made larger sections, flat twisted my hair, and put my turban on. =D

Nia.

Snapshots.

**UPDATE**
Front - 9.25 inches
Side - 9 inches
Back - 9.5 inches

I need to measure.... because clearly I didn't. My roommate kept making fun of me because I pulled out THEE biggest tape measure ever!

HA!

 Bangs are a tad bit under my chin. Finally grew back from my horrible salon experience in May.

Hitting the middle of my collarbone.

Under my tattoo. Grew back nicely after my horrible salon experience.

As you can see.....I had a horrible salon experience. The 'stylist' cut off at least 2.5-3 inches. That dirty bastard!!!!

Nia*

Cecile's before Pictures

OK, i suck at taking before pictures but is my info on length....

Front: 8 inches
Temple: 7 inches
Nape: 6 inches
Crown: 8 inches
Pretty even.... Challenge on!!!

 

xoxoxo 

Cecile 

Challenge Info - 1

I think I'll just post random information for this pertinent to the challenge that you need to take into consideration when creating your own calendar.

WATER

Water is the most essential element of the body. Like you’ve probably heard in school, the body is made up of about 70% of water. Water is also essential to hair growth. Drinking 8 to 10 glasses of water a day not only help your body’s function and skin, it also contributes to healthy hair. Water makes up approximately one fourth of the weight of a strand of hair. When the hair is properly hydrated, it will be supple and shiny.  You have to consider your hair an extension of your body, if your body is properly hydrated, your hair will flourish.

Water is also the most natural setting lotion available. Each of your strands is make up of hydrogen bonds that separate when hair is wet. If you manipulate hair’s texture while wet, the hydrogen bonds reform as it dries, holding the new shape.

Cold water rinse of your hair after you wash and condition not only closes your hair cuticle, but it is also a glossifier. The cold water constricts the cuticle layer of your hair so it lies flatter, making the strands smoother and more reflective.

*At the moment, I spray my hair ATLEAST twice a day (morning and night) and seal with my Shea Butter/oil mixture. I sometimes add moisturizer after I spray water....but I really like the ease of spraying water, sealing with oil, then going about my business. Because my hair is usually in twists throughout the week, this spray/seal method works very well for me.

Nia.

Felicia's Before Pictures

Almost all of my strands are the same length which is exciting!! My edges have come a longggggggg way being that when I started my journey in Nov 2010 they were shorter than an inch!! The front of my hair of course is still trying to catch up with the rest, it broke off allot from the bleach I put in it in Nov 2010 (really really bad idea!). My curlz are sitting at 8in so I'm hoping to be at 10in by the end of the challenge, lets see how it goes!!

Pre-Poo my 'DO

I have tons of info to post, but I'm stuck at my mom's house. All of my info is at my apartment.....on my laptop. Blah!

Anywhooooo........on my calender, I schedule a pre-poo on Saturday before my wash day. I hardly ever pre-poo but I decided to try it again just to see how my hair reacts. Tonight I mixed Pantene conditioner for Curly hair with Olive Oil and Honey (a natural humectant). Mixed everything until the consistency was creamy. I slightly finger detangled my hair before applying the mixture. I had two-strands twists in my hair for a few days so I just needed to make sure I removed all shed hairs and any tangles from the twists. When I applied the mixture unto my hair.....I was suprised at how easy it was to continue finger detangling. Like butter baby!

Let me just mention my hair is in sections. I place my hair into 4 initial sections every time I wash or style my hair. I have a lot of hair strands, my hair is thicker and more dense at the crown, and my curls are very tightly coiled. Sections just work better for me. They work better for everyone. If my hair is still too much to handle.....I break it down into smaller sections. I'll post a picture of how I section my hair tomorrow when I post my 'before'
pictures.

Continuing....after I applied the pre-poo, I twisted my hair and put in bantu knots. I'm going to sleep with the mixture in my hair so it can be extra juicy. I'm going to wash when I get home. Debating on if I want to deep condition.

I'll let you know how it works out.

Let's post those 'before' pictures, ladies.

Over and out!

Nia.

CALENDARS!!!!!

Finally I got the Calendar thing figured out. I mean....it didn't take forever....but it kind of took forever!!! ugh!

Anywhooo.......Please download the Calendars from this Google link. Again, I will be posting 2 Calendars. Use my calendar as an example, but create a calendar for your hair and lifestyle.

*You might have to download the Calendars to Microsoft and do some format adjustments. Once I opened the link, some months of the calendar were squished together. :-/

After I wake up from my nap, I'm going to post some more information for the challenge.

MY Calendar: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1JFTIXDfVY_j97WSsT4BMMErEER6l82DXzNpaPc72qcc/edit?hl=en_US

Create-Your-Own Calendar:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1AM75BZAdNuP5AnBAsWf9ynXHvKIAQcJaks2fYdN9-XY/edit?hl=en_US

Coolio!

Nia.